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Exploring the absolutely stunning scenery of the Alleppey backwaters in a houseboat made of reeds is without a doubt one of the best things to do in Kerala. Before arriving in the country it was actually one of only two true tourist experiences I’d heard of, the other being the Munnar tea plantations. And when you bear in mind that I have more Keralan friends than I have fingers and toes, and prior to my trip every single one of them said something along the lines of ‘You can’t miss Alleppey’, you can’t really blame me for ya know, not wanting to miss it. 

The only thing that was causing me any ounce of hesitation was the cost.

Because while just going to Alleppey and looking at the backwaters and maybe taking a gentle little stroll along the side of the water is a splendid idea, the whole point of Alleppey is the houseboats.

I don’t know why. They are literally just houses but in a boat. Apparently nobody even lives in them permanently, and they exist purely for tourism but whatever, they’re pretty!


I won’t even go into how much one of these things costs for a day because, quite frankly, it makes my penny-pinching self cry just thinking about it but luckily (for me anyway) one of my friends over here has ‘connections’ and was able to barter for a pretty good deal. Not as dodgy as it sounds, I swear!

This, dear readers, is why having local friends is the best thing in the world when it comes to travel in India. Locals always pay less.

So yeah, I’ve now done the whole houseboat thing twice. The first time I became Rosie from Rosie & Jim (blast from the past or what?!) and explored the Alleppey backwaters last April, it was an all expenses paid day out with my previously mentioned super-connected friend and it was lovely. Despite the fact that ordinarily I’m a “let’s jump in puddles and walk through forests and use up all our energy” kind of girl and you don’t really do anything on a houseboat, I actually thoroughly enjoyed myself. So much so, in fact, that when two of my friends from the UK were over I sort of heavily hinted/forced them into coming to Kerala just so I could take them on a houseboat through the backwaters. This time it was paid for by me but all praise super-connected friend because he managed to get me one hell of a discount that saved me having to re-mortgage my Nutribullet to afford it!

On both occasions I went out with different tour companies (there are so bloody many in and around Alleppey, you really could just have your pick of the bunch!) but the days were pretty much the same both times.


There are two main options when it comes to renting out houseboats in Alleppey: half day, or full day. Full day is basically the same as the half day tour except you get an overnight stay too. The half day ‘tour’ typically starts at 11am from the section of the water most conveniently located to the town. You’re welcomed on board by the ship’s driver (or is it captain?) and introduced to the chef. Both times when I started uot there was also another crew member on board, but he mysteriously disappeared as soon as we set sail. And when I say mysteriously disappeared, I mean mysteriously disappeared! I did not see him disembark the boat, nor was he hidden anywhere on-board. Very strange.

Anyway, the captain gave a brief tour of the boat although to be honest I definitely could have shown myself around. It’s a simple set up – lounge area leading on to the part where he steers the wheel (very technical boat language, I know), then a corridor leading to the kitchen. There are a few doors in the corridor, all of which lead to bedrooms, inside of which are little cupboard-like bathrooms. It’s all decorated like an actual house and is super quaint and such a novelty and even though it’s just a boat with rooms, something about it feels special.

I don’t have any pictures of the inside of the boat because I’m a bit of a turnip, but just imagine the interior of any old house from that BBC2 show about people wanting to move to the countryside, and you’re probably not far off.

So, after  a house boat tour the driver shot off into the distance at a dizzying speed.

That’s a lie. It genuinely moved slower than a slowworm. But it’s nice and guess what?! THE DRIVER LET ME DRIVE!!!!!

This is my "I'm blinded by the sun but they're making me have a photo" face
This is my “I’m blinded by the sun but they’re making me have a photo” face

I don’t quite know how to explain what the backwaters are. They’re kind of like canals, but also like swamps, but also like one giant windy lake at the same time. People live in them. Or more specifically, they don’t live in them because that’d mean they’re freaky water people, but they live alongside them in houses built right on the edge of the shore/bank/whatever it’s called. Making your way through the waters, you see people going about their daily business, washing themselves and their clothes in the waters, fishing with rods, fishing with nets, fishing with their bare hands (!!!), it’s such an interesting viewpoint to have.

After about 2 and a half hours of rolling down the river it was lunchtime!

The boat docked in what felt like the middle of nowhere but actually isn’t. I was told in good faith by my amigo that it’s “the Keralan countryside“, and there’s actually no better way to describe it. You’re facing nothing but rice fields and other agricultural set ups for as far as the eye can see, and the serenity and blissful silence of being surrounded by nothing but nature is so calming.


In April when we parked up the boat this little boy wearing a Ben 10 t-shirt came running up to us and started waving, shouting “One pen please, one pen please!” I tried to talk to him but it became obvious that his English didn’t stretch any further than asking for a pen, and so relied on my trusty interpreter (aka friend) to be my voice. On my request he asked the boy why he wanted a pen.

His response?

“To do my homework.”

Obviously this would have been the first time since leaving the UK that I was completely and utterly pen-less, and he looked so freaking sad when he found that out! Then his little sister came running up asking for the same thing and was equally disappointed when it transpired that this particular foreigner clearly didn’t value homework as much as they did.

It turned out that the kids belonged to a family who ran a little shop just a little way up the path (I say path, but it was basically just the edge of the field, about half a metre in width) selling drinks and snacks to people who came up on the houseboats. Seeing as a day trip on the houseboats come with lunch and snacks included, it’s hard to believe that they’re raking in money. So obviously the cynic in me came out in force and said to my friend “Do you think he just asks for pens from tourists and then sells them?”

Notice the "path"?
Notice the “path”?

No, was the answer.

Apparently where we were is so hard to reach that more often than not school is accessible by boat (which of course they have to pay for) and so in a lot of cases, the kids from poorer families just don’t go.

I don’t know for sure if the little boy and his sister actually wanted to do their homework or if they were the masterminds behind some under-the-table pen selling business, but either way they’ve stuck in my mind ever since. So when I planned another trip a few weeks back, I hoped that the boat would stop at the same place and the boy would come running up again so I could give him as many pens as he could carry.

We did stop at the same place, but the boy wasn’t there. Which is a blessing in disguise really because I forgot the pens. Oops.


Anyway, lunchtime.

The chef prepared some traditional Keralan food including fish fry, chicken fry, thoran, red rice and loads more, and honestly? There was enough to feed a whole army. They cooked up the same amount of food when there was just two of us as they did when there was four of us, and there was an absolute mountain of leftovers both times! And then came the pineapple for dessert, cut in the most magical way I’ve ever seen! I can’t even begin to describe it! Seriously, I have trawled YouTube to try and find a tutorial on how he did it but no luck so far *boohoo*.

After lunch we paid the chef to go off and get some toddy for us to try. If you ever get the chance to try toddy (otherwise known as palm wine) do yourselves a favour and just don’t. It is foul. It is disgusting. It took me almost a litre of water and 2 fried bananas to get the taste out of my mouth. Ych a fi.

Taste buds well and truly destroyed, we made our way back the same way we came and bam, day finished.

There is honestly nothing to do on these boats but sit, enjoy the scenery and get destroyed by enjoy the heat so if you have the attention span of a two-year old, you should really take a book or game of Pokémon or something. But seriously, it’s a really nice experience with beautiful views and wonderful food. I’d highly recommend it to anyone!

Are you interested in a houseboat experience in Alleppey? Click here to book in advance. 



  1. I’ve had the same pen thing happen to me in Cambodia! I really don’t know what it’s about, and honestly thought the same (cynical?) thing as you. I’ve read lots of different ideas as to why it could be, but really it seems strange that kids too poor to go to school would desperately want a pen from you to do homework. If you find the answer to this little conundrum do make sure you update!

    • rhiydwi Reply

      These kids honestly lived in the middle of nowhere and so the only people they could possibly sell pens to would be the tourists who gave them to them in the first place. The homework thing may have gotten lost in translation – the boat driver told my friend it’s because foreigners have nicer pens (?!) so it’ll make the kids the envy of the schoolyard when they actually do make it to school. I hope that’s true coz it’s quite cute.

  2. Viviane Feeney Reply

    My goodness, sounds like you have had a magical time! Just look at the scenery; it’s magical! Lucky you knew of a local so you could have this experience for cheaper – dang those locals! Aha jks. I think a house boat feels so special because it’s got all the comfort of home, but on the water in a magical tropical paradise! 🙂
    Happy blogging & traveling!

    • rhiydwi Reply

      It was great! I’d highly recommend it to absolutely everyone. Hahaha, I felt like a superhero or something for managing to pay less than my fellow westerners.

  3. I didn’t even know these existed ! It looks like a genuinely nice thing to do, so I’ll put it on the list for when I go to Kerala (and I’ll pack pens :p) Also the picture of you sailing is super cool!

    • rhiydwi Reply

      They’re apparently the thing to do when in Kerala. But yeah, I had no idea until all my friends were like “Are you going on a houseboat? You have to go on a houseboat! Go on a houseboat!” Peer pressure wins out.

  4. What a gem – your photos look incredible. I never imagined a palm-tree paradise could be found in India!

    • rhiydwi Reply

      India’s full of surprises! But the south of the country in particular is very “paradise-y”. A lot like Sri Lanka in terms of landscape and nature.

    • rhiydwi Reply

      Definitely! Especially when those connections involve getting reduced rates…

  5. Great photos! So true about locals in India paying much less than everyone else! there’s 3 or 4 different prices quoted to people depending where you’re from! nice to know you had friends who could get a good price. i also couldnt understand why they made SOOO much food on our houseboat!

    • rhiydwi Reply

      India’s so funny for that! When I went to Goa with my friends from Kerala, it was funny because they’d make me go places with them so we could get cut prices for being Western, whereas in Kerala and Rajasthan it was the complete opposite, where I’d have to hide in the car so they wouldn’t hike the prices. I know right?! We had a whole bunch of fish left at the end, and the captain ended up feeding it to the fish in the water.

  6. That really sounds like a thing go do! I loved the boat houses 🙂 I don’t know when (or if) I ever have a chance to see it, so at least I could see it through your eyes! Thanks!

    Ioanna (A Woman Afoot)

  7. This sounds like a fascinating way to see a country. From now on, when I go to a Third World country, I may bring pens with me just to hand out. I loved your pictures, and your story. Thank you so much for sharing! I need to look into this place a bit more obviously.

    • rhiydwi Reply

      I’d be careful about which parts you take them to if you do! I’ve heard there’s a lot of places where it’s considered a money making scheme, but this was literally in the middle of nowhere and the kids genuinely just wanted to do homework! Which is quite sweet.

  8. Time on the water is almost always well spent. Gorgeous photos, and looks like it was an amazing day trip both times.

  9. Kerela has been on my list forever. And, yeah, people do not consider your trip to Kerela complete unless you experience the house boat ride!! (I don’t know if I’ll be able to manage a house boat in my budget if I ever make it to Kerela.)
    I loved your narration! And, you’re absolutely right about doing things the way locals do it, cause they do it the cheapest and the best! 😀

    • rhiydwi Reply

      They do super cheap ones, or even those boats which are kind of like canoes? I don’t know what they’re called haha.

  10. Great to know you enjoyed your house boat ride in Allepey. Kerala is my favorite because of lush green palm/coconut trees with canals and rice fields. Good you made friends with locals and explored each and every part of that place. How was your toddy, must be unique for you? South of India is really a paradise.

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